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NEW 620!

Printed From: Datsun Mini Truckin
Category: General
Forum Name: New Guys and Gals Intro
Forum Discription: Intro for the new ones
URL: http://www.datsunminitruckin.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=2524
Printed Date: 20 Jul 2018 at 3:33pm


Topic: NEW 620!
Posted By: ZacharyProhodsky
Subject: NEW 620!
Date Posted: 28 Sep 2013 at 11:49pm
Hey all!
I am getting a hand me down truck from my Grandfather this week.
I've had lots of cars ranging from 83 to 98 but never a pickup and
never a datsun so I am pretty excited! I've been eyeing his 520 for
as long as I can remember!

The first thing I want to do is clutch, tune up etc as I like to do things myself 
on my cars. Is there anything I should look for? As of right now I know its a 520 
I know its yellow and I know its a Datsun. I will update when I get it with
ALL the information. But things to look for? Things of note that go wrong with
these trucks?

In the future I would like to do an engine swap, maybe? ha I've done plenty in my lifetime and 
just love doing it. I do not know much about the stock engine though so maybe keep it
and make it puuuurrr. We shall see? 

One thing that bugs the hell out of me is when people bag these things with super huge rims.
... dumb. Just dumb.
I've owned super low cars but they were volkswagons and cars, Not super cool trucks.
ALright well happy to be here! This is the first forum I tried on this truck, 
Hopefully it is a good one!

Pictures will come later this week!



Replies:
Posted By: Charlie69
Date Posted: 29 Sep 2013 at 1:20am
Welcome to DMT. Here is where I am with my 1966 520.

http://www.datsunminitruckin.com/charlies-66-520_topic523.html" rel="nofollow - http://www.datsunminitruckin.com/charlies-66-520_topic523.html



Posted By: ZacharyProhodsky
Date Posted: 29 Sep 2013 at 1:27am
Nice! I like it!
I cannot wait to have a new project and I hope to do a full rebuild as well.
Super stoked. :)Smile


Posted By: Charlie69
Date Posted: 29 Sep 2013 at 1:29am
I fixed the link. Do you know what year it is?


Posted By: ZacharyProhodsky
Date Posted: 29 Sep 2013 at 3:15pm
No I am afraid I do not.
 I asked my Grandmother but all she could tell me it is a pickup. ha
It is a 2 hour drive away from my home so I am kind of nervous about
driving it all the way home. Thinking about an hour stop for meal break check
everything out etc.
I'll obviously check all the liquids, lights, tires, breaks etc before leaving as well
as have someone drive behind me.
Its been a couple years since I've had a car to work on. 
Super excited!



Posted By: Rusty
Date Posted: 30 Sep 2013 at 1:07am
Welcome to the forum Zach. Sounds exciting getting a new little project. Start ya a build thread when ya get her and show us your progress.

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Posted By: ZacharyProhodsky
Date Posted: 30 Sep 2013 at 2:57am
Oh you know I will and thank you for the Welcome!
Glad to be here! I will most likely be getting her the beginning of 
next week. So stay tuned! 


Posted By: EzCruiser
Date Posted: 01 Oct 2013 at 5:00am
This is going to be a great thread! Can't wait for you to get her!

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Posted By: EzCruiser
Date Posted: 10 Oct 2013 at 10:40pm
Any updates?

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Posted By: ZacharyProhodsky
Date Posted: 10 Oct 2013 at 10:46pm
I pick her up a week from this Saturday. The car is about 2 hours away or a bit over. So I've been trying to line someone up to take me and drive behind me and a day that my Grandmother would be there. Been quite a task! haha  but 9 days and counting!


Posted By: ZacharyProhodsky
Date Posted: 14 Oct 2013 at 4:46pm
5 days! :)


Posted By: ZacharyProhodsky
Date Posted: 20 Oct 2013 at 12:35am
I GOT HER! First thing I noticed was the smoke in the cabin as I drove home which i later found out was a leak from the PCV pipe. So I got everything to fix that tomorrow when I wake up. First thing. It has BAD Cancer under each floorboard. So I will most likely cut it out and weld in replacement panels. I want a tach as there is just a D symbol there. OH IT IS THE 620. NOT the 520. My bad. 1976 datsun 620. Also After doing a compression check cylinder 1-3 were al around 150+ and cylinder 4 was 42 or 50. Around there. So my options?? engine rebuild or swap? hmmm The options.. Which I do not know because I still do not know about Datsuns. I AM doing my research however. The ride was very smooth. Drove it about an hour cruising at 65mph on I5. The smoke wasn't bad unless going up a hill or when I finally got in town at stop lights  starting up. etc. and for your viewing pleasure...



Posted By: ZacharyProhodsky
Date Posted: 20 Oct 2013 at 12:58am
http://imageshack.com/i/nhy4uyj" rel="nofollow"> Uploaded with http://imageshack.com" rel="nofollow - ImageShack.com
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Posted By: EzCruiser
Date Posted: 20 Oct 2013 at 1:27am
That's a really nice long bed 620!!! Might be a bad valve seat or a blown head gasket before you assume rings. You could do a leak down test, would tell you for sure. Did you notice oin in water, water in oil, running hot, missing coolant, stumbling, sputtering?

Great job on getting it home!! Thanks for posting pictures!!!

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Posted By: ZacharyProhodsky
Date Posted: 20 Oct 2013 at 1:36am
Lets see. no oil in water no water in oil... ran perfect stayed slightly below mid temp. the whole trip...The idle was low but great. no stumbling or sputtering. I squirted oil in the spark plug hole and it went up to 150psi. That is why I jumped to the conclusion it was the rings.



Posted By: ZacharyProhodsky
Date Posted: 20 Oct 2013 at 1:41am
I am SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO excited for this. You have no idea. Also been looking at ebay for a manual. I would like a bentley manual. Do they make one? All I can find is chilton and haynes of course. 


Posted By: EzCruiser
Date Posted: 20 Oct 2013 at 2:13am
Yeah, you said bentley, I'm assuming the vanagon in the background is yours? There are factory service manuals on ebay and such. You can find plenty of information here in the technical aspect and maybe even some printable information!

http://olddatsuns.com/



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Posted By: ZacharyProhodsky
Date Posted: 20 Oct 2013 at 2:16am
That would be my dads Vanagon. Been sitting in the driveway for 15 years or loonger.  'When he gets time" he has a brand new engine for it in the basement. haha. Someday it will be done. We have had lots of projects! Gotta love automobiles! 


Posted By: smooth620
Date Posted: 20 Oct 2013 at 2:31am
Originally posted by ZacharyProhodsky ZacharyProhodsky wrote:

Lets see. no oil in water no water in oil... ran perfect stayed slightly below mid temp. the whole trip...The idle was low but great. no stumbling or sputtering. I squirted oil in the spark plug hole and it went up to 150psi. That is why I jumped to the conclusion it was the rings.



Yup, looks to be rings. I was hoping for an easier fix like a sticky valve. But hey that is a nice, solid 620! I would scrub the engine bay clean, buff out the paint and roll it as is.
So, what's up with the early-620 radiator support? A little accident I presume.

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Better to learn from other peoples mistakes than to make them yourself.-Anonymous



Posted By: ZacharyProhodsky
Date Posted: 20 Oct 2013 at 2:39am
I really have no history of the vehicle at all. My grandma didn't really know and my grandfather passed years ago. I assume it got in some sort of accident as it is red. :p I don't really want to just drive it on 3 cylinders. I was interested in engine swaps as I have done them in the past but all I can find i the ka24de. I know a little about the engine as some years back I was going to buy a 240 but I dont really think I would like it in a truck. Any suggestions?? Or could just rebuild this engine. Honestly looking for something that I can daily drive and hopefully go to the mountains in. hopefully.. haha lots to learn about my new baby. :p


Posted By: smooth620
Date Posted: 20 Oct 2013 at 4:18am
1st, I would change the topic title to 'New 620!'
Then I'd run out and get a can of Marvel Mystery oil or a quart of Lucas in addition to your favorite oil. Do NOT use any motor or tranny flush because the truck has been sitting too long. You'll do more harm than good. I have helped start and run Datsun engines that have sat 15, 16, & 19 years. They are bulletproof unless you screw it up. For now, I suggest a new battery, a high torque starter, and a very good tune up including valves adjusted to specs. Tuned right it will run like a sewing machine even as low as 120psi. Run it till you're able to fund a total rebuild or until you find a replacement engine.

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Better to learn from other peoples mistakes than to make them yourself.-Anonymous



Posted By: Braden620
Date Posted: 20 Oct 2013 at 11:46am
Yeah first thing is first clean every inch of that truck.  Polish the paint best you can and then give it an all over tune up, brakes, fluids, the whole nine yards.  Im sure some bugs will work their way up, they always do after one sits for so long. Just remember to document the whole process and post pics here.  Welcome to the forum, get with rusty for some free stickers.  

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If we ever forget that we are One Nation Under God, then we will be a nation gone under.
Ronald Reagan


Posted By: EzCruiser
Date Posted: 21 Oct 2013 at 11:44pm
Maybe just a stubborn set of rings? Might consider pulling the piston and seeing the condition of the rings? Or if you pull the head and you see scars in the cylinder walls you know it's time for a visit from the dingle berry!

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Posted By: ZacharyProhodsky
Date Posted: 22 Oct 2013 at 12:46am
Alright so... update. I spent around 10 hours yesterday straight grinding out the interior. woo so sore. Pictures will come after this post. Also I dont recall If I mentioned but there was a leak from the PCV hose the part where it connects from the hose coming off the pcv valve to the hard pipe. I replaced the hose from the hard pipe to a free line to a can. As per suggestion from my father. It was leaking a bit of oil and smoking. I assume from the 4th cylinder. The only problem is when stopped at a stop light or sign smoke piles out of the engine and is pretty awkward. (not as bad as my old supra with the blown head gasket haha years ago) 
So right now pcv valve is blocked and pipe goes to can. smokes very bad.  exhaust smokes pretty bad going up hills or really anytime i am accelerating. 
Any suggestions for this? I am looking for a new block right now and might have one lined up. 

NOW for the pictures and RUST YAY

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Posted By: EzCruiser
Date Posted: 22 Oct 2013 at 3:23am
First off, you're making GREAT progress! Next, that last picture is awesome!
Real grunt work happening to the floor, looks great!

I always make sure my pcv valve is functioning properly, (shake test usually). I wonder if you have oil in the intake runner where the pcv is screwed into?

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Posted By: ZacharyProhodsky
Date Posted: 22 Oct 2013 at 3:33am
Thankyou Thankyou.
Lots of work indeed but I live for this!
The pcv valve was functional. Got a new one anyway.
I think someone put the wrong kind of hose resulting in a leak.
I have the right hose on order should be here in a couple days and I
assume less smoke from the engine compartment but I still will have the
exhaust smoke when I apply gas until I get a new block or decide to dive into that thing. 
For now I would rather just work on the body and then engine. 


Posted By: ZacharyProhodsky
Date Posted: 22 Oct 2013 at 3:34am
OH and got the timing done. 
Yay for points...
Electronic ignition perhaps in the near future?



Posted By: ZacharyProhodsky
Date Posted: 22 Oct 2013 at 3:39am
ALSO another update...
New Brakes
New suspension (stock)
and door and window seals on the way. 

I will Constantly Post pictures and I love them, looking at them, and if you car nuts are as crazy as I am you love them too!

Also who is this rusty and free stickers!?


Posted By: EzCruiser
Date Posted: 22 Oct 2013 at 4:42am
I always say I'd rather buy a good body and have a bad engine... Engine work is always cheaper! I'm subscribed!

Are you doing a disc brake conversion?


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Posted By: smooth620
Date Posted: 22 Oct 2013 at 6:11am
Nice job on the floor.
A quart of Lucas Oil Stabilizer should reduce or resolve the smoking issue.
Keep up the good work.
Look on the Stickers thread, Rusty will hook u up.

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Better to learn from other peoples mistakes than to make them yourself.-Anonymous



Posted By: Braden620
Date Posted: 22 Oct 2013 at 11:29am
Great job on the floor,  be sure to cover your glass when grinding or the sparks will melt little spots in the glass.  Also I think a cup brush on a die grinder will work wonders for you.  With the grinding your actually wearing away metal, the cup brush just removes the rust and nothing more.  Did you use an acid wash after grinding?  Looks great keep up the good work!!!  Make sure you seal that floor good so it doesn't happen again.

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If we ever forget that we are One Nation Under God, then we will be a nation gone under.
Ronald Reagan


Posted By: MOCMAN
Date Posted: 22 Oct 2013 at 12:14pm
Originally posted by Braden620 Braden620 wrote:

Great job on the floor,  be sure to cover your glass when grinding or the sparks will melt little spots in the glass.  Also I think a cup brush on a die grinder will work wonders for you.  With the grinding your actually wearing away metal, the cup brush just removes the rust and nothing more.  Did you use an acid wash after grinding?  Looks great keep up the good work!!!  Make sure you seal that floor good so it doesn't happen again.
 
Agreed about the cup brush on a drill. It will cause less damage to the really thin areas that you're trying to preserve. BTW Braden what do you suggest for an acid wash?


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John 3:16
"There's a fine line between "Hobby" and "Mental Illness"
1985 Nissan 720 KingCab 2wd 5spd.
1995 Nissan Hardbody 2wd Reg. Cab
2014 VW passat SEL VR6
1966 VW Beetle
2005 Ford Explorer XLT 4X4


Posted By: ZacharyProhodsky
Date Posted: 22 Oct 2013 at 4:53pm
Aright I will look into the cup brush! I did notice it wasnt doing a great job. 
I have a ton more experience in engine stuff not body work so I am
learning and teaching myself as I go. Best way to do it in my opinion.
I will be sealing it up today and painting maybe tomorrow. 
I will be getting most of my work done on weekends just so you all know. 
Today I am gonna try and get new bulbs for the dash as I cant see anything when driving in the dark.
Just a faint light. I still want a tach but I dont want to get some huge tacky tach on my dash so 
thinking of ideas. Also ordered 8tracks today for the stereo. :D
Will be getting some lucas as well. Hopefully that goes over well and I messaged a guy
on craigslist about a block. Hopefully will check that out soon as well!


Posted By: Braden620
Date Posted: 22 Oct 2013 at 7:22pm
Originally posted by MOCMAN MOCMAN wrote:

Originally posted by Braden620 Braden620 wrote:

Great job on the floor,  be sure to cover your glass when grinding or the sparks will melt little spots in the glass.  Also I think a cup brush on a die grinder will work wonders for you.  With the grinding your actually wearing away metal, the cup brush just removes the rust and nothing more.  Did you use an acid wash after grinding?  Looks great keep up the good work!!!  Make sure you seal that floor good so it doesn't happen again.
 
Agreed about the cup brush on a drill. It will cause less damage to the really thin areas that you're trying to preserve. BTW Braden what do you suggest for an acid wash?

Naval jelly will dissolve rust effectively but must be neutralized after use.  Evapo rust is awesome stuff but can take a day or two, soak a towel with it and lay it on the rust.


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If we ever forget that we are One Nation Under God, then we will be a nation gone under.
Ronald Reagan


Posted By: Braden620
Date Posted: 22 Oct 2013 at 7:24pm
Originally posted by ZacharyProhodsky ZacharyProhodsky wrote:

Aright I will look into the cup brush! I did notice it wasnt doing a great job. 
I have a ton more experience in engine stuff not body work so I am
learning and teaching myself as I go. Best way to do it in my opinion.
I will be sealing it up today and painting maybe tomorrow. 
I will be getting most of my work done on weekends just so you all know. 
Today I am gonna try and get new bulbs for the dash as I cant see anything when driving in the dark.
Just a faint light. I still want a tach but I dont want to get some huge tacky tach on my dash so 
thinking of ideas. Also ordered 8tracks today for the stereo. :D
Will be getting some lucas as well. Hopefully that goes over well and I messaged a guy
on craigslist about a block. Hopefully will check that out soon as well!
 

Best get some LED's for the gauges,  even new incandescent bulbs suck in those clusters. Lucas is a poor solution to a worse problem. It might work fro the time being though.


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If we ever forget that we are One Nation Under God, then we will be a nation gone under.
Ronald Reagan


Posted By: ZacharyProhodsky
Date Posted: 22 Oct 2013 at 7:28pm
Yeah I am not one to try and fix a big problem with something small for it to just happen again. Just looking for something temporary until I find a new block.


Posted By: Charlie69
Date Posted: 22 Oct 2013 at 9:01pm
Great looking long bed. I wish my grandma had a Datsun! LOL

Keep up the good work.

I have a stash of 620 parts if you need something.

I am getting a 75 on Sunday. Have not seen this one.


Posted By: EzCruiser
Date Posted: 23 Oct 2013 at 12:23am
I have a mini sunpro tach if you're interested?? Looks like this one but it's black without chrome:

http://www.amazon.com/Sunpro-CP7908-Mini-Super-Tachometer/dp/B00029JXO8

Mounts nicely on the column with curved bracket.

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Posted By: ZacharyProhodsky
Date Posted: 23 Oct 2013 at 12:56am
Yeah how much are you wanting EZ?

Also update hopefully nothing big but noticed some bad shaking/rattling when 
turning left and when braking hard. Tomorrow should be funnnnn!


Posted By: EzCruiser
Date Posted: 23 Oct 2013 at 10:07am
Let me find it before I try to sell it, ha!

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Posted By: ZacharyProhodsky
Date Posted: 23 Oct 2013 at 5:35pm
I actually found one going through my stuff! Hopefully it works if not I'll let you know  
if you find yours!


Posted By: Rusty
Date Posted: 23 Oct 2013 at 6:11pm
Good job Zachary. Looks like fun, always fun when ya have a project to work on. After you get done with the floors, I suggest, if no one has already, cover the entire floor and underneath the cab, POR15. Any rust you have missed, will be sealed up. Want have to worry about any rust again. POR15 is the bomb. 

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Posted By: ZacharyProhodsky
Date Posted: 23 Oct 2013 at 6:39pm
So you are Rusty! haha Nice to meet  ya. 
Thanks and I will try it! Also Rusty how do I go about getting one of those stickers!

Update on the wheel issue: I jacked her up and everything seemed in order.
So just as maintenance I am going to order upper and lower control arm bushings 
and a new king pin kit. Also when I have more time probably this weekend gonna 
clean everything off and take a much better look. 



Posted By: Rusty
Date Posted: 23 Oct 2013 at 8:08pm
PM me your address and I'll get ya some stuff in the mail. 

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Posted By: ZacharyProhodsky
Date Posted: 23 Oct 2013 at 9:55pm
Done deal


Posted By: ZacharyProhodsky
Date Posted: 24 Oct 2013 at 2:04pm
How big is the gas tank in the 620? Does anyone know?
Trying to figure out my gas mileage. 
I filled up and have gone about 150 miles and I am at around
a quarter of a tank. Most being hwy miles. Actually almost all aside from maybe 10
being hwy miles.


Posted By: ZacharyProhodsky
Date Posted: 24 Oct 2013 at 3:25pm
ah found it 11.9 gallons for the pickup. so assuming I get to 200 miles that is about 17mpg. 
Is that about normal for these trucks? I assumed it would be a little better than that.

My new manual and PCV hose just came in the mail so time to get that done!
Less smoke will be nice and maybe that will help the mpg a little bit!


Posted By: ZacharyProhodsky
Date Posted: 24 Oct 2013 at 4:32pm
Car Decisions are the worst when you are on a budget.

Called the guy with the block he wants $60 for just the block.
He says he has all the parts as well as heads and lots of other 620
parts. So weighing pros and cons or buying this stuff and putting it in
or rebuilding mine and getting new rings in there. :/ 
Not sure how much either will be at the moment.


Posted By: MOCMAN
Date Posted: 24 Oct 2013 at 6:28pm
Originally posted by ZacharyProhodsky ZacharyProhodsky wrote:

ah found it 11.9 gallons for the pickup. so assuming I get to 200 miles that is about 17mpg. 
Is that about normal for these trucks? I assumed it would be a little better than that.

My new manual and PCV hose just came in the mail so time to get that done!
Less smoke will be nice and maybe that will help the mpg a little bit!
 
That's not exactly the most accurate way to fingure out your gas mileage. Just fill it up next time and divide how many miles you've driven (since the last fillup) by how many gallons it took to fill it up. I use the same pump at the same gas station almost every time to gurantee accuracy.


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John 3:16
"There's a fine line between "Hobby" and "Mental Illness"
1985 Nissan 720 KingCab 2wd 5spd.
1995 Nissan Hardbody 2wd Reg. Cab
2014 VW passat SEL VR6
1966 VW Beetle
2005 Ford Explorer XLT 4X4


Posted By: EzCruiser
Date Posted: 24 Oct 2013 at 10:08pm
I'm with MOC, Miles per Gallon, miles(driven) divided by gallons(fill-up). If you're not buying a block that has been machined, and you have to machine either way, just machine the block you have. Lest you're like every other datsun member, you like to hoard... Buy the block, send it to the machine shop for a thorough checking, decking, punching... Stay away from Datsun Parts LLC built engines, 2 out of 2 have had failures. Knotty's Racing in Mayberry, NC are AWESOME, AFFORDABLE and PRECISE! Just ask rusty how well his runs now.

Anyway, there are bunch of engine combinations, search Jason Grey Info. Might I ask what kind of build you would like to put back in it?

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Posted By: ZacharyProhodsky
Date Posted: 26 Oct 2013 at 12:19pm
Getting started now on a long fun day on the truck.
Brakes and finishing the interior. Updates soon :)


Posted By: ZacharyProhodsky
Date Posted: 01 Nov 2013 at 6:25pm
OOO no updates sorry guys.
So floors done. After tons of cuts. haha
I got new shoes and drums on front - Waiting for rebuild kit for the rear as they are leaking.
Got the suspension tightened up and steering wheel is now not upside down. New lights for gauges help a little but ordering LEDs - Will get pictures up when I get them.
I got a tach installed on the steering wheel column. 
I used a little gadget to look in cylinder 4 - no pictures- but it is DIRTY in there.
Hopefully soon I will be ordering rings etc. spent so much on everything else I gotta ease back a bit.
Also I am going to put a new stereo in and have speakers as well. Pictures of that of course will come when I get around to it. The hole where the stereo was lets so much cold air in on the freeway which kinda sucks. 

The floor is ALL sealed up etc.
I know I am probably forgetting a lot of things.
Also Thanks to Rusty for the stickers! Awesome man thanks - one up now and another coming. 

PICTURES!!

New pipe below and tiewrap is gone. Had to do it quick to drive to the store to buy clamps
http://imageshack.com/i/05saiyj" rel="nofollow">
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I like to take things apart... what can I say :O
http://imageshack.com/i/nfopnxj" rel="nofollow"> Lunch.... haha 
http://imageshack.com/i/jjk0mgj" rel="nofollow"> New stereo coming from an old audi.
http://imageshack.com/i/0ko6taj" rel="nofollow"> Cleaning up rust stains from the shelf underneath the glovebox. Used baking soda and vinegar and actually worked very well.
http://imageshack.com/i/4jhcjej" rel="nofollow"> Japanese... just thought it was cool
http://imageshack.com/i/0kozonj" rel="nofollow"> Thats right only 28k on my truck ;)
http://imageshack.com/i/mjwga2j" rel="nofollow"> Uploaded with http://imageshack.com" rel="nofollow - ImageShack.com
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http://imageshack.com/i/jjchj8j" rel="nofollow"> Lots of play in shifter? Iassume there should be a bushing in there? I am not sure though?
http://imageshack.com/i/5l0wq0j" rel="nofollow"> Uploaded with http://imageshack.com" rel="nofollow - ImageShack.com
http://imageshack.com/i/0vkgpzj" rel="nofollow"> First coats of sealer on.
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http://imageshack.com/i/176wh7j" rel="nofollow"> Some coats of sound deadener on. Not gonna lie though the ride is still incredibly loud.
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Posted By: ZacharyProhodsky
Date Posted: 04 Nov 2013 at 7:08pm
Got new door seals and window seals yesterday, gonna be putting those on today keep out all that damn NorthWest rain. >.<


Posted By: Rusty
Date Posted: 05 Nov 2013 at 12:23am
Lookin good. Need to get something on the underneath side to keep the water out of there. Spray it all underneath with some rubberized undercoating.  

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Posted By: ZacharyProhodsky
Date Posted: 05 Nov 2013 at 8:46pm
Yeah I forgot to get pictures but I have the underside sprayed as well. :-)


Posted By: ZacharyProhodsky
Date Posted: 20 Dec 2013 at 7:11pm
So a little Update. Brakes, Suspension, Tie rod ends and ball joints all done.
The Brakes were a doozy. Every single thing has been replaces, New shoes, Drums, Brake lines, Master cylinder and Booster. I drove and no boost. Bled everything again and still no vacuum. Figured out there was a 'N.L.S.V' Thing... I bled 2 of the 3 bleeders on that and they dont lock up as bad but still don't work great. I couldn't bleed the middle due to not being able to loosen the bleeder.. Will it figure it out later. Thank goodness for the awesome engine breaking this car has.

SO I put a cheap stereo in and wired it all up. The stereo works perfect (will get some pictures in a bit of how I did it) except when at idle. It cuts in and out like its not getting power. The idle on the car is a bit rough but my tach which I assume is correct but could be wrong says it normally idles around 10,000rpm. Which is a little high but considering I am only running on 3 cylinders I can deal with at the moment. So possible reasons for this? Alternator? Would and do they make an alternator with a built in voltage regulator so I can bypass mine? Maybe that would fix it? 

My manual shows no sign of a coolant temp sensor and my gauge on my cluster stopped working. Any helpful hints as where to start with that?

Lastly what 5 speed transmissions line up to the l20b as that will be my next upgrade as well as either a rebuilt engine or if I can find a used l20b somewhere that would be pretty nifty.

LASTLY LASTLY Electronic ignition in the future? Now where to start for that.

As soon as i find my cable for my phone to get my pictures  of it i will upload them all and you can enjoy the magnificence that is my Beautiful Datsun! 

I am even rocking the forums sticker now!

Also apologies for the long over due update on the little wonder. 


Posted By: EzCruiser
Date Posted: 20 Dec 2013 at 8:59pm

The tach may have a switch for 4cyl, 6cyl and 8cyl.  Make sure it's on the right setting if so.


Here is some Jason Grey distributor information that is pretty priceless:


Electronic Ignition Distributer FAQ for Datsun L-series Engines

Installing a Nissan factory Electronic Ignition distributer (EI Dizzy) in place of the old breaker points dizzy is one of the most recommended simple modifications that can be made to any L series powered 510 still running breaker points. You get better reliability, more accurate timing and a more powerfull spark that delivers easier starting, smoother idleing, eliminates missing at cruise and the EI dizzy does not need "tuneup" every few thousand miles like the old point/condensor dizzy. Considering that these dizzys can pull a 6 cylinder L28 to the 6500RPM redline, the electronic trigger mechanism should be capable of providing hot spark for a 4 cylinder to at least 10,000 RPM, the only real limitiation here is the slop in the drive spindle/gears effecting timing accuracy at high RPM.

You could get an aftermarket EI conversion kit such as the "Pertronix" and convert a single breaker point dizzy to a magnetic trigger. See http://web.archive.org/web/20050312092651/http://www.vintageperformance.com/retrorockets/Datsun/nissan.htm" rel="nofollow - http://www.vintageperformance.com/retrorockets/Datsun/nissan.htm  . One limitiation of the 510 points dizzy is the small size of the stock distributer cap. With hotter spark, there is more of a chance of cross firing between terminals and fortunatly the later EI dizzy uses a larger size cap to space the plug terminals further apart. This is important because any dirt or moisture in the cap can lead to spark arcing along the surface of the cap, firing the wrong spark plug. As cylinder pressure (and performance) increases, it takes more voltage to make the spark jump at the sparkplug under compression. The spark will seek the path of least resistance, this may be a path that jumps to the adjacent cap ternimal and to a plug not under compression! A better option if you do decide to use a pertronix kit is to install it into a single breaker points dizzy from an early L20B as these use the larger diameter cap. Also note that the pertronix kit will not work on a dual points dizzy, as used on '70-'73 L16. Dime Quarterly article in vol2 issue4 covers instalation of pertronix ignitor.

There were 2 different versions of nissan factory EI dizzys available. Some of the L20B engines (particularly in California) from '75 to '78 vehicles had a EI dizzy that is triggered when the 4 pronged rotor wheel spins past a single fixed magnetic sensor unit. The early EI dizzy used a large ignitor box to process the dizzy trigger signal and spark the coil. The ignitor box is remotly located from the dizzy. The ignitor box is inside the car buried somewhere behind passenger side dashboard/kickpanel. The remote ignitor dizzys look much like the dizzy from the 280Z if you are in junkyard hunting and want something for reference, both use similar trigger mechanism. I dont have any experience installing the single pickup dizzy. The extra hassle of getting and installing the ignitor box and wiring remote from the dizzy makes these more work to retrofit onto a 510. If you need a wireing diagram to hook up the remote ignitor box check at  http://web.archive.org/web/20050312092651/http://www.datsun510.com/ignition.jpg" rel="nofollow - datsuns.com . 

Above picture is of the early style '75-'78 EI dizzy . Note how the magnetic pickup trigger only gets signal from 1 lobe of the 4 lobed spindle rotor each time it fires, possibly less accurate than the later 4-prong trigger. The necessary ignitor box to make this early style dizzy function is located remote from the dizzy. Photo courtesy of Scott Christopher.

The EI dizzy I suggest using is the later type with a "matchbox" ignitor with improved trigger mechanism and electronics. Instead of the large remote located ignitor box, the transistorized ignitor is a black plastic matchbox sized module that is bolted directly on the outside of dizzy body. In place of mechanical breaker points, the ignition module "matchbox" and the magnetic trigger mechanism function to electronicly spark the ignition coil. The electronics automaticly provide the optimum coil saturation (equivalent to dwell with breaker points). The improved trigger of the matchbox ignitor dizzy consist of a fixed magnetic wheel with 4 inward pointing prongs. Attached to the dizzy rotor shaft is a 4 pronged star wheel. Every time the 4 prongs of the rotor star align with the 4 prongs of the fixed trigger a slight magnetic pulse is created and produces an electric current pulse in the thin coil of wire on a spool below the trigger. The ignitor senses the current in the spool and transistorized circuitry causes the ignition spark by momentarily disrupting the ground path of the ignition coil. With no parts in rubbing contact (like the old breaker points) there is no mechanical wear of the trigger mechanism. The shaft bearings of a used EI dizzy are likely10 years newer than your 510 points dizzy and the EI dizzy bearings have not had to contend with the extra drag and vibration of the breaker points so should last much longer before developing slop.

 

Above pictures show the later "matchbox ignitor" style EI dizzy. The "matchbox" ignitor is clearly visible on side of dizzy.

Donor Sources

The desireable "matchbox" ignitor dizzy came fitted on L20B engines from '79 200sx, and HL510 cars and '79-'80 620 pickup truck. The same design of dizzy was also used on fedral emmisions equiped 4 spark plug cylinder head '80 and '81 NAPS-Z20 "S" (HL510) and NAPS-Z20"E" (200sx) and possibly the '81 NAPS-Z22 "S" pickup motor. The NAPS-Z engines starting in '82 use a different cylinder head with 8 spark plugs, two spark plugs per cylinder (like earlier California market heads). The dizzy from 8 plug head engines will not swap to a L series engine, the only NAPS-Z dizzy that will work is from the 4 plug head engines. In my experience of junkyard hunting, you are more likely to find a '80-'81 NAPS-Z HL510 or 200sx than the '79-'80 L20B vehicles. The 280zx L28, Maxima L24E, and some 210 "A" series motors also used the same style of desireable dizzy. The 280zx/maxima dizzy body could be used if you change out the 6 pronged trigger wheel/star with a 4 pronged trigger wheel/star. The "A" series motors use a drive gear (instead of spindle with tang) so wont work with a L series. However, it is possible to change out the drive gear from "A" series motor dizzy to the correct drive tang for the L series. Just drive out the roll pin on the drive shaft (outside of the dizzy body) to swap the shaft. Alternatly, the "A" series does have a 4 pronged trigger wheel and rotor star needed to modify a 280zx/maxima dizzy into a 4 cylinder unit.

Ive found that there are two configurations of dizzy housings. The most common locates the ignition module foreward of the dizzy (away from exhaust manifold heat-good). The other (early?) type locates the module on the rear side of the dizzy, facing toward the hot exhaust manifold, probably not the best configuration for longevity of the ignition module. The body casting of the two types hold the distributer cap oriented 45 degrees differently. To compensate, the star trigger wheel has the alignment tab oriented 45 deg different so the spark rotor is pointing at a cap terminal when fireing. The distributer cap and rotor are the same configuration for both housing types. Keep the orientation type of star and body together, dont intermix the rotor star with alternate configuaration of body or your spark will fire while the rotor is pointing directly between two plug wire terminals and will crossfire. It is not possible to rotate the rearward facing ignitor body style dizzy so the ignitior faces foreward because the vacuum canister interferes with the thermostat housing. If you have a rearward facing module dizzy, wrap the section of #1 exhaust manifold with header insulation tape to reduce heat to the module. (or fabricate a small heat shield for the dizzy?). One other non-compatale item, the spark rotor from a 280zx is too tall to fit in the 4 cylinder distributer cap. I mistakenly hasseled an autoparts store employee by insisting that he sold me the wrong distributer cap since the cap was "too short" and hit the rotor. Problem was that I was using a non-compatable 280zx spark rotor. Otherwize, feel free to mix and match parts from different dizzys as needed to build one with the correct trigger, drive tang and best advance mechanism for a 4 cylinder L series, the parts from these dizzys are usualy interchangeable.

Installation

The EI dizzy from a L20B is a direct bolt on for any other L series 4 cylinder engine, just be sure to get and use the thin steel "L" shaped adjuster plate and aluminum dizzy pedistal from the donor engine. The only drawback to the 4 plug NAPS-Z dizzy is that it is not configured to directly bolt up to the L series timing chain cover. The actual body of the NAPS-Z dizzy is identical to the '79-'80 L20B EI dizzy, the difference is that the aluminum dizzy pedistal that bolts to the NAPS-Z timing chain cover wont fit a L series timing cover and the matching "L" shaped steel timing adjustment plate is different. To bolt a NAPS-Z dizzy onto a L series motor, use the aluminum pedistal from another a L series EI dizzy. Just get the aluminum stand and steel adjuster plate from a 280zx, maxima or L20B motor and use it. You can also use your stock L16 aluminum stand and modify the NAPS-Z adjuster plate to fit. This requires flipping over the steel "L" shaped adjuster plate and moving/enlarging the adjustment slot to fit the new dizzy and stand. If you need to modify the "L"plate, just make sure that with the dizzy on the motor and crankshaft around #1 cylinder at 10deg BTDC (check that both camshaft lobes are pointed upward to verify #1 cylinder is on compression stroke), you should be able to adjust the dizzy so the triggers star/wheel prongs align up and fire the coil. If you need to reposition the range of dizzy adjsutment at the adjsuter bolt between the "L" plate and pedistal, you can remove the oil pump, pull out the drive spindle and re-install spindle positioned on a different crank gear tooth. Figure out wich cap termianl the rotor is pointing at when #1 cylinder is firing and route the plug wire to that cap terminal. Then route the rest of the plug wires, rotor turns CCV viewed from above and the fireing order is 1-3-4-2. Even when used with matching pedistal and adjsuter plate, some EI dizzy comes setup with the upper rotor oriented 180 degrees different from the drive tang (as compaired to the stock 510 points dizzy, so the cap teminal closest to the radiator is now #3 instead of #1 cylinder). Check and verify where the rotor is pointing, you mayl need to swap the spark plug wires 180degrees on the cap so the spark goes to the correct cylinder. Alternatly, to retain your "stock 510" plug wire routing, you can dissasemble the dizzy to remove the upper mechanical advance rotor, turn upper rotor180 degrees on the mechanical advance weight pins. (so the advance weight pins fit on the opposite rotor slots).

 

Electrical Connections

The electrical connections are really simple when you have the dizzy with black matchbox sized tranzistorized ignition module. There is a "T" shaped connection formed from two plug terminals labeled "B" and "C". For the "B" terminal connection (verticle leg of the "T" shaped connector), use crimper end connections to make a new jumper wire that goes from the "B" matchbox terminal to the + terminal of igniton coil. This jumper wire supplies the matchbox ignitor with ignition key switched + current. The "C" terminal, the horizontal top terminal of the "T" shaped matchbox connector gets wired directly to the - ignition coil terminal. This is the grond path for the ignition coil, ground connection intermitantly disrupted by the matchbox ignitor to fire the coil. Rather than using the stock electrical harness breaker points wiring for the matchbox "C" terminal to -coil terminal, I strongly suggest splicing in a new jumper wire directly berween -coil terminal and "C" terminal. I encountered coil failure that I traced to a short to ground in the stock harness when I was using the stock breaker points ground wire. Possibly the increased voltage of the EI system overloaded the stock harness wire?? Simply bypassing the stock breaker points wire(s) with a single new ground wire also simplifies conversion from a dual points dizzy if you are still running it. Use the "T" terminal+wires from the donor car to make a nice plug together terminal connection at the matchbox. Sometimes there is also another ground terminal that screws into the body of the dizzy but I have found this ground is non-essential, dont worry if it is missing.

In order to get the full benefit of hotter spark with the EI dizzy, you should remove the ballast resistor from the ignition coil circiut. The ballast was there so that only 6-8 volts of current went to the coil windings to reduce energy of the igniton system and lessen breaker points pitting. Removing the ballast resistor will supply the coil with constant 12-14 volts for hotter spark all the time, not just while the starter is cranking. You should use a coil that was designed for EI as it will give a stronger spark and because using the old breaker points coil with EI may cause the old coil to overheat. Get the coil from the EI dizzy donor car or get a EI specific aftermarket coil such as the MSD Blaster 2 coil. Do not use a coil with internal ballast resistor such as the Bosch blue coil. (Popular with air cooled VW crowd). To finish off your high output ignition, use plug wires with spiral wound metal core (spiral windings supress radiio noise). Do not use stock type carbon core wires that use high wire resistance for radio noise suppresion and are prone to burning out. I have run my EI dizzy without ballast on both types of factory tachometers (parallel and serial) and the tach works fine and has suffered no damage from the increased voltage. Factory spec for EI spark plug gap is .041" so open up your plugs to take advantage of the stronger spark.

Ignition Module

The transistorized ignitor matchbox is very reliable. (Much more so than breaker points!) I have not experienced a failure with my junkyard harvested unit in over 70,000 miles of additional use. I have heard of sudden failures however so carrying a spare ignitor is not a bad idea. New from Nissan, the ignitor module alone cost over $150 so try to keep a junkyard spare on hand. A cheap fix for a dead or missing module is to use a Chevy HEI module from a '77 Corvette (about $15 new), There are a bunch of websites with the HEI module instalation directions, take your pick from:  http://web.archive.org/web/20050312092651/http://dimequarterly.tierranet.com/articles/tech_hei.html" rel="nofollow - Dime Quarterly ,  http://web.archive.org/web/20050312092651/http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/4761/elcign.htm" rel="nofollow - ugly datsun webpage  , or  http://web.archive.org/web/20050312092651/http://www.sonic.net/~kyle/gmhei.html" rel="nofollow - Kyle's Ztech .The HEI module is also usefull if you get one of the early "remote ignitor box" single pickup type dizzy but dont have the ignitor box.

I once tried using a ignitor module from a '83 280zx. This had not one "T" shaped terninal but two"T" terninals (4 external wires connected). The extra set of terminals is there to somehow tie in with the EFI brain. When i tried using the 280zx module, I found that it produced approximately 20 degrees of RPM dependant timing retard. The more the motor reved, the closer to 0 TDC the timing light marks moved, opposite of the mechanical advance mechanism! Nothing faulty with the mechanical or vacuum advance mechanism, the retard was coming from the ignition module. Ive since learned that these were used on '81 to '83 280zx and maxima motors.This module should not be used on a 510 (since it has no EFI brain). Make shure your module only has one of the "T" terminals. The 280zx ignitor controlled timing retard might make a interesting boost retard mechanism for a turbocharged engine if a way of controlling the retard could be linked to the boost level?

Disassembly

You should dissasemble your dizzy to check the condition of the mechanical parts. If the dizzy has never been dissasebled then some of the screw may be frozen in place, use a good screwdriver and avoid stripping out the screw head slots. To remove the breaker plate assembly, you first need to remove the trigger star wheel and the vacuum advance arm. To remove the trigger star from the rotor shaft, remove the plastic spark rotor and then use two flatblade screwdrivers to simultaniously pry upward on opposite sides of trigger wheel. Remove the vacuum advance canister before removing the breaker plate assembly. The screw that attaches the vacuum canister actuating rod only threads into the moveable advance plate, the special screw has a unthreaded end just sticks into the hole of the actuating rod. When reassembling a dizzy, use small needle nose pliers or magnetic phillips head screwdriver to install the special actuating rod screw, the rod must be held in place while the screw is threaded in to the advance plate so the unthreaded portion engauges the actuating rod hole. Only after the actuating rod is attached can you screw the vacuum canister to the dizzy body. To fiddle with the mechanical advance parts, you need to remove the upper portion of the rotor shaft (see photo below). To remove the shaft, pry out the rubber plug at the end of the shaft hiding the retaing screw. Remove the retaining screw and the upper portion of the shaft should easily slip off. I have encountered upper shafts that were corroded to the lower shaft. If the upper shaft cannor freely slide and rotate the mechanical advance will not function so clean and lube upper shaft before reassembly.
An excellent website with complete info on dizzy dissasembly, rebuilding, and replacement of the main shaft bearing is at  http://web.archive.org/web/20050312092651/http://www.physics.ohio-state.edu/~jrdemers/280ZX/distributor/distributor.html" rel="nofollow - http://www.physics.ohio-state.edu/~jrdemers/280ZX/distributor/distributor.html  . There is also a good diagram of a dissasembled dizzy http://web.archive.org/web/20050312092651/http://www.physics.ohio-state.edu/~jrdemers/280ZX/distributor/D79.gif" rel="nofollow -  here .

Advance Mechanism Problems

Before you harvest a JY dizzy, check the condition of the vacuum advance canister. Approx 2/3 of the canisters I find in JY leak. (check vacuum with a mity-vac or suck by mouth). New vacuum canisters cost approx $25 from nissan, part number 22301-7901 (a 280zx parts listing). Check the condition of the breaker plate assembly. The plate that mounts the trigger wheel should rotate freely. There are two sets of ball bearings that keep the breaker plate sliding smoothly. The 3 bearing on the bottom of the breaker plate assembly (below the fixed plate) are held by a metal cage and are trouble free. The 3 bearings in the middle of the assembly, directly below the moveable breaker plate are retained in a plastic cage that usualy is broken. The grease that lubes the bearings dries up and the feeble plastic bearing cage gets brittle resulting in "floppy cage syndrom". The cage breaks, the bearings are no longer held in place soslip out and the upper portion of moveable plate will be able to "rock" side to side giving imprecise timing and can evetualy damage the magnetic trigger. New replacement breaker plates incorperating the plastic part are supposably available new from Nissan for $35 but I have been able to fix them myself. Dissasemble the breaker plate assembly by removing the circlip holding the bottom metal cage. Pay carefull attention to the position and fit of the various metal plates sandwiched together. These are thin spring-steel plates that the bearings roll on, these shouldnt be worn or grooved by the bearings. It is fairly simple to fabricate a new bearing cage to replace the broken cage. I just found a flat piece of soft plastic with thickness slightly thinner than diameter of the bearing. Using a pair of scissors and a knife, I cut out a new bearing cage to replace the broken cage, works like new. Once assembled, both sets of the bearings are held in place by the "spring" tension of the metal lower bearing cage, it is not terribly important that the homemade replacement bearing cage hold the 3 bearings precisely, you just need the plastic cage to hold the bearings in place while assembling. To re-assemble the breaker plate mechanism, install the lower steel bearing retainer cage without the 3 lower bearings and install the circlip holding the metal retainer in place. Once the circlip is in place, pry each of the spring cage arms upward to slip each bearing into the cage.

Recurving

For optimum performance with any dizzy you should check and re-curve the mechanical advance curve as necessary. There are literaly hundreds of different stock advance curves used, check my  http://web.archive.org/web/20050312092651/http://home.att.net/~jason510/dizzy_specs.htm" rel="nofollow - dizzy specs  page for further info. For emmisions reasons, not much timing advance is used by factory at idle/low RPM. Better low/midrange performance can be achieved by recurving. A "typical" recurve strategy when using high performance carbs/cams/high compression would be to limit the mechanical RPM advance to15 crank degrees (7.5 dizzy degrees) and then set the initial advance to 20 degrees (for total 35degrees advance). Higher performance engines require even more initial advance and less total (initial+mechanical) advance so the mechanical advance portion becomes really small. Do not just increase your initial advance setting without limiting the mechanical advance or you will likely run too much advance at high RPM (like more than 35-36 degrees) resulting in detonation and engine damage. Swapping springs and weights from a different dizzy (including 6-cylinder) can change the slope of curve of plot for RPM vs degrees advance. Typicaly, you want fairly rapid advance at midrage RPM, with most or all of the mechanical advance finished "early" by around 2500RPM-3000RPM.(crank). Some IE dizzys have two springs on each of the advance weights (4 springs total). There is usualy a stiff spring that returns the weight to 0 advance at low RPM and another spring that is set "loose", without tension at low RPM. This produces a dual slope advance curve with fast initial advance and a more gradual advance at higher RPM. Testing has shown this can be good for HP if the shallow high RPM curve allows gradual advance past the peak torque RPM (where detonation is most likely o occur). I have noticed different orientations of the advance slot for the upper rotor shaft, some slots are aligned radial to the rotor while others dizzys have them angled diagonal to the radial orientation. In order to reduce the amount of mechanical advance, fill in the inner end of the slot that the weight pin travels in with JB weld epoxy. This puts more pre-load on the weight spring to ensure the weight wont bounce at idle speed creating unstable idle. Low RPM throttle response is better with 15-20 degrees of initial advance. By filling in the slot, you limit the amount of mechanical advance so that when the initial advance is increased, you wont have excessive total advance (mechanical + initial).  The slope of the advance curve is unchanged by filling the slots, it just effects RPM where the mechanical advance begins to kick in and the length of the advance curve.On the dizzys with radial slot orientation, I have measured that 2.9degrees of mechanical advance (at crank) is added for each 1mm of slot travel. The weight pin in the slot is 5mm diameter, subtract this measurement from the slot length to find the effective slot travel and calculate the degrees advance, confirm any recurving efforts on the running engine with a timing light and tachometer.

Above picture shows the mechanical advance upper rotor shaft with radial orientation advance weight slots. Retaining screw is hidden below rubber plug on upper end. By changing the length of the two slots the amount of mechanical advance can be altered. Turn the shaft 180 degrees in relation to the drive tang to change the spark plug wire arrangement on the cap .

Vacuum Advance

  You should have a functional vacuum advance canister for street driving. The vacuum advance canister alters the ignition timing in response to engine load. The vacuum canister does not produce advance under full throttle operation, manifold vacuum is much too low so canister shouldt effect tendancy for engine to ping under full load.. Under partial throttle operation, on the intake stroke the piston pulls against the blockage of the throttle plate so vacuum is produced in the intake manifold and the cylinder receives less than a full charge of air/fuel and retains more of the burnt exhaust gas in the cylinder. This causes the fresh (partial) intake charge to burn slower when ignited so earlier ignition is needed to extract maximum energy from the fuel. Not using vacuum advance will give you no real increase in performance and will decrease your gas milage and increase emmisions unnecessarily for street driving. The vacuum advance canisters can also be recurved. All the EI dizzys use the same canister that is adjusted at the factory for desired advance characteristics. To re-adjust, remove the putty blob on the end of the canister with a high speed grinder to expose the adjustment screws. Inner coaxial pin limits vacuum advance travel, outer grub screw adjust the spring pre-load on the diaphragm. Turning the outer screw counterclokwise reduces the amount of vacuum necessay to initiate advance. If you are using sidedraft carbs and the vacuum signal is decreased, use a gauge to measure vacuum under cruise conditions and then re-set the advance canister to give full advance at this vacuum level. It may take some trial and error to find the correct amount of vacuum advance, I would think that between 15-20 degrees (crank) at 10-15 in Hg would be a good starting place. Advance beyond the initial + mechanical limit of 36 degrees is needed with under high manifold vacuum (low engine load). For each 1mm of travel of the vacuum canister actuating rod, the timing is changed by 4.24 crankshaft degrees. Once you have finished adjusting canister, you must re-seal the threads of the adjusment screws with paint or hardeing silicon putty or air will leak past the threads.

Above picture shows a vacuum advance canister with the travel adjusment pin and spring preload screw removed. If you need to order a new canister, they cost approximatly $25 new from nissan. Part number 22301-7901 as speced for a 280zx dizzy.

Want another opinion on dizzy recurving? click  http://web.archive.org/web/20050312092651/http://clanlittle.com/advance.html" rel="nofollow - . (chevy info but good).

For a Z car site with relevant dizzy swap info check out  http://web.archive.org/web/20050312092651/http://www.mindspring.com/~blittl/engine.html" rel="nofollow - . The dizzy info is about 2/3 of the way down from the end of this long page. (Check out the rest of the site too, lots of good info).

For the basics of distributer instalation and adjustment, check this article on http://web.archive.org/web/20050312092651/http://www.bryanf.com/info/510dist.htm" rel="nofollow -  Bryan Feldmans website.




As far as the 5-speed transmissions go:


77-79 620

1980 720 with l20b

1977-1983 280z/zx non-turbo

1979-1984 Maxima

1976.5-1978 b210  some are "tilted" and require a little cutting and bending.



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Posted By: EzCruiser
Date Posted: 20 Dec 2013 at 9:22pm
for some reason my computer hates image shack...

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Posted By: ZacharyProhodsky
Date Posted: 21 Dec 2013 at 2:54am
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Posted By: Braden620
Date Posted: 22 Dec 2013 at 6:51pm
Looking great!!!   Did your doors close differently after the new seals?  Mine close tight and my driver door is very hard to open. Is that why you took off your door? 

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If we ever forget that we are One Nation Under God, then we will be a nation gone under.
Ronald Reagan


Posted By: ZacharyProhodsky
Date Posted: 23 Dec 2013 at 10:19pm
The doors close a little better yeah but ultimately they close terrible.
They seal nicely but close bad.
haha
I bought a 'door hinge repair kit' but couldn't get the spines out? Not sure what they are called.
But both doors hang a little too low when they are open so when I close they door I have to lift up and pull hard...which ultimately pisses my girlfriend off which in turn means I don't get to drive much...plus all the other reasons..brakes engine...etc. lol 

BUT it IS coming together. lol

:-)


Posted By: Rusty
Date Posted: 23 Dec 2013 at 10:31pm
Good to hear she's coming together. Are the pins wore out in the door hinges? When the doors open, can you lift on the door and its got movement up and down? If not, then you just need to do some fine tuning on adjusting the hinges and the latch.

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Posted By: ZacharyProhodsky
Date Posted: 23 Dec 2013 at 10:39pm
PINS! yes that is the word I was looking for!
Yeah I can move the door up and down when it is opened.
I have new pins for it but couldn't get the old pins out.

Also there seems to never be any 5 speeds or l20bs in the northwest.  :(

I am getting around 150 miles to a tank of gas at the moment. So
really looking for a used engine to put in there. I want to find a used engine
and then build mine after as I need a car daily.  Cannot wait!

Also living in an apartment right now while looking for a house and for some reason
they really frown on any car work in the complex... haters. :(



Posted By: Rusty
Date Posted: 23 Dec 2013 at 10:44pm
Replacing those pins are a big pain, your best bet is to find some good used hinges and just replace the hinge itself.  

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Posted By: ZacharyProhodsky
Date Posted: 23 Dec 2013 at 10:46pm
Yeah I was thinking that as well actually. Just seems like parts for these cars are hard to come by or super more expensive than they should be. 


Posted By: Rusty
Date Posted: 23 Dec 2013 at 10:53pm
Sorry, I don't have any extras. I used my extras on the Ole Blue build.  Start a thread in the parts wanted section and see if one of the members can help ya out. 

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Posted By: ZacharyProhodsky
Date Posted: 23 Dec 2013 at 10:55pm
Good Idea! Also Was looking at your Datsun Decals for the tailgate. Not the solid but the outline black ones. In about a week I am gonna want to order some from you if that is at all possible. Secondly how did you do the top cover of the bed?


Posted By: ZacharyProhodsky
Date Posted: 30 Dec 2013 at 8:38pm
Contacted some people on some engines and 5speeds today... crosses fingers.


Posted By: ZacharyProhodsky
Date Posted: 01 Jan 2014 at 7:22pm
Still nothing. Really wanting to find a used engine.
I don't have the space to rebuild right now.
Ouch


Posted By: EzCruiser
Date Posted: 01 Jan 2014 at 11:44pm
Might as well build yourself a lz22



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Posted By: ZacharyProhodsky
Date Posted: 02 Jan 2014 at 5:37pm
That would be cool. I am not familiar with the engine though or the application of the engine.


Posted By: smooth620
Date Posted: 02 Jan 2014 at 7:00pm
#Ole Blue LZ22

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Better to learn from other peoples mistakes than to make them yourself.-Anonymous



Posted By: ZacharyProhodsky
Date Posted: 02 Jan 2014 at 7:02pm
Just found one about 20 minutes away from an 84 720.
$400 for 5 speed and engine or
$300 for just engine. hmmmmm



Posted By: EzCruiser
Date Posted: 02 Jan 2014 at 8:30pm
It's pretty simple really, in the midst of gathering parts for one myself!  2.2 nap-z bottom end, u67 head, block forward l20 timing and cover, z24 head gasket.  

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Posted By: EzCruiser
Date Posted: 02 Jan 2014 at 8:32pm
280zx 5 speed would be a good mate to the lz22.

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Posted By: EzCruiser
Date Posted: 02 Jan 2014 at 8:32pm
You have a pull-a-part local to you?

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Posted By: ZacharyProhodsky
Date Posted: 02 Jan 2014 at 8:33pm
Sounds exciting. :)
If I can somehow wing the extra $400.
I will probably end up picking it up.
I'll keep ya'll updated.


Posted By: ZacharyProhodsky
Date Posted: 02 Jan 2014 at 8:33pm
yeah I do a couple actually



Posted By: EzCruiser
Date Posted: 02 Jan 2014 at 8:38pm
Can't go wrong with pull-a-part  they offer a 30 day warranty, the one in knoxville almost always has a few 720s..

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Posted By: ZacharyProhodsky
Date Posted: 02 Jan 2014 at 8:41pm
Too bad I am in Washington. haha
But I will certainly go and check the local ones out!
Thanks for the reminder!


Posted By: EzCruiser
Date Posted: 02 Jan 2014 at 8:44pm
Oh yeah, then I mean pick-n-pull!!

http://www.picknpull.com/locations.aspx


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Posted By: ZacharyProhodsky
Date Posted: 02 Jan 2014 at 8:55pm
OOOOOOOOOOOO new 75 620 added 5 days ago to the yard.
I know where I am going tomorrow. woo!
I <3 you EZ lol.



Posted By: EzCruiser
Date Posted: 02 Jan 2014 at 9:06pm
Beer I've never even been to Washington! Approve

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Posted By: Rusty
Date Posted: 03 Jan 2014 at 12:27am
Originally posted by ZacharyProhodsky ZacharyProhodsky wrote:

Good Idea! Also Was looking at your Datsun Decals for the tailgate. Not the solid but the outline black ones. In about a week I am gonna want to order some from you if that is at all possible. Secondly how did you do the top cover of the bed?
Just let me know and I'll get my guy to make ya a set up, but let me tell ya, they are a pain in the arse to put on. I bought the cover on my bed off ebay years ago, it was new old stock from a old parts store. I think it was a old amco product.

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Posted By: smooth620
Date Posted: 03 Jan 2014 at 1:11am
Originally posted by ZacharyProhodsky ZacharyProhodsky wrote:

Just found one about 20 minutes away from an 84 720.
$400 for 5 speed and engine


81-83 720 has the Z22 & 84-86 720 came with the Z24.
Building an LZ22 isn't hard.
Building an LZ24 is somewhat complicated. It's a taller block so u need to add links to the timing chain and modify the timing chain cover. Oil galleys need to be drilled out or plugged (i cant recall which)to match the L series head. Its more work than building an LZ20 or LZ22.
For more torque I recommend building an LZ using a Z20 or Z22 from a 79-83 200SX. They came with longer con-rods and flatop pistons.


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Better to learn from other peoples mistakes than to make them yourself.-Anonymous



Posted By: ZacharyProhodsky
Date Posted: 13 Feb 2014 at 4:24pm
Oh didn't see these replys oops!

Yeah Rusty I would like the decals let me know how much!
I had a ton more pictures to put up and various updates but my phone broke.. :(
Had some outstanding fun in the snow. Handled fairly well but I think it was because 
I have so little power output I couldn't really do much. :D

I finished the brakes and they work superb now. I didn't realize you
had to bleed things in such a precise order with that darn N.L.S.V.

A question though about starting the car.
Often when I try and start the car it just..moans I guess would be close to what 
it sounds like when trying to turn it over. It might do it once twice then crank then do it again
and then crank and start. Or it might start the first time but rarely does it do that. 
I've not had a car do this in the past and I've contacted 4ish people yesterday again about various
engines and trannys. Seems like I keep getting to people after they have been sold. Doh!
The plan is to get a used l20b swap it in quick and then build mine or build a lz22. Right now I am getting about 150miles to the tank and it takes me FOREVER to get up to 60mph or so on the free way. 

The stereo problem is still occurring but am gonna go out and trouble shoot that today.
Now that there isn't snow EVERYWHERE I can go give my girl some love and attention.
I had too many days working out in below freezing and got tired of it.

Also gonna me taking down the rust and paint etc of the bed and am gonna use that black truck liner. Looks pretty good in my opinion. I've seen a couple others that have done it. After words gonna take the bed completely off and spray it and get it perfect. My dad has a sprayer that I've  used in the past. Was thinking about doing bed doors hood various pieces. then doing what I cannot take off... Getting in way over my head is fun. 

Anyway time to get to work!


Posted By: ZacharyProhodsky
Date Posted: 13 Feb 2014 at 5:30pm
What do you guys think?
He said he would drop it to $250

http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/pts/4330565746.html


Posted By: EzCruiser
Date Posted: 13 Feb 2014 at 10:21pm
Well, that's a W58 head that should be open chambered...  It has liners in the exhaust that are difficult/expensive to remove, but were put there to help burn off unburnt fuel, I think it's kinda like the theory behind a wood stove with a secondary combustion chamber.... Supposedly there IS a closed chambered version, but it's mega rare and probably still has the exhaust liners.

Ask for the number on the side of the head and ask if he knows "for sure with guarantee" that it's closed chambered.  I mean, he may have had the combustion chambers welded and machined, in which I would expect him to know the volume of the combustion chamber!


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Posted By: EzCruiser
Date Posted: 13 Feb 2014 at 10:44pm
Just curious, are you burning oil or losing coolant?  Ever get pinging or spark knock under a load?  I look at it like this, you have 50psi compression on #4 which is 33% of your other cylinders.  Let's say your l20 is rated at 100, that's 25hp per cylinder, so times 3 equals 75.  Now on the third cylinder you're suffering a 66% loss, so 8.3 hp.  Adding the two yields 83.3hp.  That's a sizable hit.  

Find the cause of the 50psi on #4.  Know anyone with a leak down tester?  If you have a bad valve seat you can just go have it replaced and throw on a new gasket kit and timing kit and viola.  You'd be set for another 300,000 miles, if you drive it right of course, haha!


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Posted By: EzCruiser
Date Posted: 13 Feb 2014 at 10:46pm
http://seattle.craigslist.org/oly/cto/4322789267.html" rel="nofollow - http://seattle.craigslist.org/oly/cto/4322789267.html

image 3
http://images.craigslist.org/00o0o_jrYkT2wys63_600x450.jpg" rel="nofollow">image 1 http://images.craigslist.org/00S0S_e3KxPmi7hO1_600x450.jpg" rel="nofollow">image 2 http://images.craigslist.org/00F0F_2ytIxHqIx79_600x450.jpg" rel="nofollow">image 3 http://images.craigslist.org/00t0t_hLvd5oPSU8C_600x450.jpg" rel="nofollow">image 4

1978 Datson Pickup

MAKE OFFER BEFORE IT'S SCRAPPED!! This is a rare Datson pickup since it's a ext cab. Truck is in ok shape. Recommended for a parts truck. No wheels oe tires. Have CLEAR TITLE. Would be a great project truck. Has motor out of datson 200sx. Not shure if it runs, might needs work. Has a 4-speed trany and I have a 5-speed too if interested. You must haul.
$350 OBO. CASH ONLY!!!Any questions please call or TEXT (360) 520-9209 and leave your name and number and witch item you are looking at since I have multiple items for sale.


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Posted By: ZacharyProhodsky
Date Posted: 14 Feb 2014 at 12:15am
hmm no coolant losage but I do burn oil. Usually when I am feathering a gear keeping up with speed etc. I am noticeably down on hp and she does run pretty rough. I have to floor it to try and keep up with traffic. Not fun. I did a leak down test but I don't remember the results. haha I know how terrible of me...

I bought the engine. He seemed like a pretty straight forward guy and an enthusiast. Told me to contact him whenever I needed a part or question etc. 
He also showed me a bunch of things like the heater control switch not actually moving when I adjust the lever.  
MY HEAT ACTUALLY DOES WORK!!!!!!!
Also I need to take my carb off and check everything because who ever put it on was.. not the brightest bulb. I was planning on doing this anyway and I was kind of thinking of taking my head and putting it on my new bottom end. But I also want to just keep my engine and build it and drive on this new engine. 
Decisions Decisions. 

My coolant temp gauge stopped working. >.<


Posted By: EzCruiser
Date Posted: 14 Feb 2014 at 12:29am
Glad you bought the motor!  Should be a good runner!  Is the cam stock or the block been punched?

On the coolant sensor, works best with two people so you can watch the gauge move, all you need to do is take the wire off the unit and ground the wire and look at the gauge.  If it's pegged out then the gauge is good, replace temp sending unit.





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Posted By: ZacharyProhodsky
Date Posted: 14 Feb 2014 at 3:58pm
I'll see if I can rope the misses into helping me with that!
Also there is a new thermostat in the new engine and 
a new oil pressure. Anything suggestions as to what else
I should replace or look for whilst the motor is out.
Any tricks to pulling it out etc?

Here are two picture of gettin it in. :p

https://imageshack.com/i/n6jnq3j" rel="nofollow">
https://imageshack.com/i/govq8ij" rel="nofollow">



Posted By: ZacharyProhodsky
Date Posted: 14 Feb 2014 at 3:58pm
That's right reppin' the forum ;)
You'd be proud Rusty :D


Posted By: EzCruiser
Date Posted: 14 Feb 2014 at 11:00pm
Has the timing been replaced with a new timing set?  If not, replace while the engine is out!!!  Soo much easier...  If the waterpump looks old or sounds "grimey" when you spin it I would replace it, also easier while it's out.  Might as well buy an electronic distributor while you're at it and throw it on there.

I think the engine is easier to pull with the transmission attached, but either way would be good experience and not really that hard..

If the oil pump is new I would make sure it's primed.  Have you heard the engine run?  If not, check to make sure the timing is correct by putting the engine at TDC on the compression stroke, take the valve cover off and check the alignment of the notch and groove(check service manual or ask me and I'll post it up).  Wouldn't hurt to rotate the engine by hand 1 or 2 complete revolutions to make sure there isn't anything interfering, CYA method.  Check the valve gap and adjust if necessary.

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Posted By: Rusty
Date Posted: 14 Feb 2014 at 11:41pm
Thanks for representing,
and I second everything Ez said.


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Posted By: ZacharyProhodsky
Date Posted: 15 Feb 2014 at 12:18am
Getting an electronic ignition has been on my bucket list but everytime
a new datsun gets to a yard around here someone swipes them up.
Looking online would these work and be worth the price?
http://www.hot-spark.com/1-HS-HIT4-Distributor.htm
or
http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-cyl-Distributor-with-Electronic-Ignition-for-Datsun-Nissan-L16-L18-L20B-Engine-/310847284002?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item485ff12322&vxp=mtr
and then on Rockauto there are two types one for 102 and one for 120.

Anyway aiming for the swap to start(and hopefully finish)next weekend.

Also does anyone suggest any spark plugs that work well with the engine?

Gettin excited. 

oh on a last note I took my voltometer to a live wire when the car was idle
and it was everywhere from 1volt to 9volts. when revving the engine or keeping the rpms high it stayed around 14volts. When turning the lights on when idle it fluctuated at a lower reading.
hmmmm. 
AND
My heat works well and keeps my feet hot but when I open that middle vent its cold and the two side vents on the dash are both cold?



Posted By: EzCruiser
Date Posted: 15 Feb 2014 at 3:21am
I think the hot spark and the ebay item may be the same thing.  Not 100% though.  I've seen at least the ebay one installed on a L20 with a 5 speed and it worked great!  I think rusty may know about the rock auto ones..  Is one new and the other reman?

The only spark plug I would put in my L20 is the NGK BP6ES or NGK BP6ES-11

On the charging issue:  
-  Is the charge light on?
-  I would check my fuses and then my fuse block connections.  Scrub with some vinegar to clean the contacts.  
-  Check the connections on the back of the block.  
-  Make sure the positive and negative leads from battery are good and tight with no corrosion or breaks.  
-  Check the tension of the drive belt and maybe take it off and see if alternator pulley spins freely.
-  Check the voltage across the battery with the ignition key in the off position, should read at least 12.

Being that it's dropping below the charge of the battery 12+ volts, I would suspect alternator, voltage regulator or wiring.  Keep it simple, check ALL the easy things first!

If you need the procedure to check anything just ask, I can post most of them.



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Posted By: EzCruiser
Date Posted: 15 Feb 2014 at 3:34am
Oh yeah, the center vent is a fresh air valve.  The side vents have a knob down below the vent that you can push or pull out for fresh air as well.  I think out is for fresh air on side vents.  

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Posted By: ZacharyProhodsky
Date Posted: 18 Feb 2014 at 9:46pm
ah so only heat at feat and windshield? Interesting.
Just replaced all dash lights and the light above my head 
when door is open with LEDs. Will take pictures when it gets
darker out later. :-)

As far as the radio problem. I am gonna replace the power and ground
with 12gauge wire this weekend. See how that works out better.

Gettin super excited for the swap. Can't wait to take everything out and clean the bay up a
bit as well as see what the last person did as far as wiring. >.<
Pictures of course will be included



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