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my '74 smooth620

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HAWK EYE

Joined: 20 Jan 2010
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smooth620 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Apr 2010 at 4:02pm
more old pics....

i converted to front disc before i swapped beds and worked on the body.


Better to learn from other peoples mistakes than to make them yourself.-Anonymous

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WATER BOY

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote slam_dat_sun Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Apr 2010 at 4:47pm
Originally posted by smooth620 smooth620 wrote:

more old pics....

i converted to front disc before i swapped beds and worked on the body.


Can you please break it down and pm me a punch list of all the parts I need to do a disc swap on my 74? PLEASE ha ha
You picked a fine time to leave me Lucille
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HAWK EYE

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smooth620 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Apr 2010 at 11:19pm
Front disc conversion on a early 620 and possibly 521/520

all parts needed for a front disc conversion should be preferably from a '78 but a '79  or maybe a 720 should fit but either way you'll need to modify the upper control arm. also, this mod will increase your track width by 1.25" on each side so if u plan on tucking tires you'll need to use rims with 38 offset or higher. currently, i'm gathering parts from a d21 and will do some research and test fitting on a 620 but i'll post later on that subject. for now, strip off all original kingpin suspension parts, strip/clean and paint your frame and follow along:

1st, i modified the original kingpin UCAs by welding in the balljoint area from  '79 UCAs then i set those aside 


if u have the '78 UCAs you will need to 'center' the balljoint area by cutting then rewelding it 7 3/8"- 7 1/2" from the center of the pivot mount



only the '78 UCAs will bolt onto the kingpin framemount; mounting bolts are 3 1/8" apart


now bolt on the LCAs, lower balljoints and tension rods


cut off then re-weld frame perches 2 inches inboard. re-check measurements by test fitting and mounting tension rods


install spindles, original modded UCAs, balljoints then the rotors, calipers, shocks and new brake lines


install tie-rods preferably the 720 adjustables to prevent alignment issues

install swaybar preferably from a '78-'79 or a 720 to avoid clearance issues

i installed a new 3/4 brake m/c with a rebuilt booster which is more than sufficient IMHO
you can also use a costlier 280zx m/c, 13/16 or 15/16, felt no difference to me


 i attached a NLSV(proportioning valve) on the frame inclined at 10 degrees. this part alone is a big improvement in braking effort, stability, and stopping distances whether it's drums or disc. it came out on 620s as early as '75. i then spliced in a new brake line from the firewall to the NSLV.

after buttoning everything up follow the brake bleeding procedure according to the 1979 datsun service manual
1)master, front
2)master, rear
3)NLSV, front
4)front wheels
5)rear wheels (left one 1st)
6)NLSV, rear
7)NLSV, center





before i did this conversion i had already swapped in a '80 720 4:11 rearend which increased  track width by 1/2" on each side. needless to say, i had to find oem nissan rims with a higher offset to avoid tire rubbing issues.















Edited by smooth620 - 25 Apr 2010 at 6:33am
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HAWK EYE

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smooth620 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Apr 2010 at 3:49am
these are '03 17" pathfinders that a friend had with 235/40/17 tires that tucked in nicely


these are '07 18" infiniti QX56 wheels that i used before i swapped to front disc. their offset is 25 so i couldn't use them without the tires rubbing the fenders. i swapped them out for the 17" supercharge rims with 40 offset that tucked the tires in. in the following pics the infiniti's are tucked in nicely on my friend's 620 with drums. he sold the pathfinders soon after and installed 18" titans




Edited by smooth620 - 25 Apr 2010 at 5:40am
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EzCruiser View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote EzCruiser Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Apr 2010 at 4:02am
What's the tire size on the Q56's?  The Pathfinder's total diameter added up to about 24.4".  How much lower in the front and rear are you from stock?
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HAWK EYE

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smooth620 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Apr 2010 at 6:00am
Originally posted by EzCruiser EzCruiser wrote:

What's the tire size on the Q56's?  The Pathfinder's total diameter added up to about 24.4".  How much lower in the front and rear are you from stock?


those are Pirelli P-Zeros 225/40/18 wrapped around the QX56 infiniti's. my friend lowered the rear with 3" blocks and de-arched the leafs 2.75" for a total of just under a 6" drop. afterwards he lowered the front to level the truck evenly. currently my '74 is lowered 4.5" using 2" blocks and sits level measuring 24" from the center of the wheelwell arch to the concrete floor. when i used 3" blocks i would bottom out and the rear axle would hit my cut-down rubber snubbers. i may end up c-notching the frame if i decide to go back to 3" blocks. oh BTW, my friend's truck always bottoms out.
Better to learn from other peoples mistakes than to make them yourself.-Anonymous

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HAWK EYE

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smooth620 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Apr 2010 at 6:49am
after the brakes and suspension got done i swapped out a truck 5speed trans for a '83 280zx 5spd. then i moved onto the body starting with the roof. removed the old roofskin and welded in a skin from a '73. shaved the vents also.

before


after

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote EzCruiser Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Apr 2010 at 6:56am
Man, you cease to amaze me!  Did you accomplish such smooth welds by tacking the 4 corners in and tack the rest in a cross-pattern to allow it to cool AND then sand down the welds, on the inside as well?  I don't mean to interject so much, I'm just looking for pointers for my soon to come project! :-)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 74datsun620 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Apr 2010 at 5:53pm
Ezcuizer, I don't know how Smooth did it. But I move around and keep the heat down and back it up with copper. The copper helps cool it down faster and if you blow threw the copper won't stick to the steal.
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HAWK EYE

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smooth620 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Apr 2010 at 6:07pm
Originally posted by EzCruiser EzCruiser wrote:

Man, you cease to amaze me!  Did you accomplish such smooth welds by tacking the 4 corners in and tack the rest in a cross-pattern to allow it to cool AND then sand down the welds, on the inside as well?  I don't mean to interject so much, I'm just looking for pointers for my soon to come project! :-)


EZ, it wasn't easyLOLi have to admit i did this the hard way but for good reasons. i wanted to retain the structural integrity and strength of the roof pillars and gutters so  i chose to replace only the roof skin rather than chopping the top off. i drilled out the factory tack welds along the rain gutters and the front lip of the roof. i cut along the roof line  about 1" above the rear rain gutter then i  peeled off the old skin. i did the same with the donor roof, laid it on the cab then aligned it. my buddy took over doing all the cross-pattern tacking  and welding while patiently letting it cool in between, very time consuming. there was very minimal to almost unnoticeable warpage and best of all i didn't have to do any bodywork inside the cab, the headliner will just cover all that. this part of the project was very tedious and it did take longer than just chopping the top off but to me well worth it and am very satisfied with the results.
Better to learn from other peoples mistakes than to make them yourself.-Anonymous

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