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ka24de swap into a 620

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slinginabullet View Drop Down
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    Posted: 03 Mar 2011 at 10:31pm
!!! DO AT YOUR OWN RISK REFERENCE ONLY !!!

Be fore we start let's look at our engine options. The KA24 engine out of a truck is rear sump which poses a problem interfering with the cross member and needs some modifications. The truck block has bushed wrist pins so when it comes to a rebuild it needs to see a machine shop if you plan on replacing pistons. The car engine is front sump with little modifications to the oil pan that will clear the center link. Some people instead will weld up the holes for the center link ream them on the under side and put the link in from the bottom side but more costly. The car engine also has floating wrist pins so any at home engine builder can replace pistons with no special tools. If I'm wrong in any way please correct me so I'm not mis informing others. If you are going to do a stock swap I would suggest using the harness from a 240sx for that year of engine or obd1 for 94 and older and obd2 for 95 and newer to correspond with that engine and ecm. The truck harness is more of a hassle from what I've heard because it is heavily integrated into the chassis harness and is a pain to separate. 

Here are the parts I used as well as the modifications I did for my swap. 
Ka24de engine transmission ecm and harness from 92 240sx. Lets start with the engine I removed the cars rubber motor mounts and used the 620 mounts. I removed the oil pan took a body dolly and pounded the rear of the sump in to clear the center link about a half inch deep or so. Next the lip at the top of the trans tunnel and bottom of the fire wall cut it on eather side and bend up.



The engine should now drop right in for a test fit, then remove and set aside for now. Next with the engine out install the transmission you will now see were you need to bump the tunnel to make a good fit. Use the 620 trans mount it will bolt right to the ka trany. you can use the 620 trans x member the holes just need to be sloted for the trans mount to fit. Slot the trans mount holes not the holes that mount to the frame. Next remove the front drive shaft cut off the dust cover and grind smooth. About 3/4 inches back from the yoke no closer to the yoke you will see why when you cut the drive line. Use a chop saw to get a square cut, cut the drive line if I remember right you need to remove 3 more inches from the shaft but double check before making the final cut. Use the cut off piece stand on end then cut all the way down one side. Use that for your sleeve when welding the yoke back on. Slide the sleeve back over the shaft tack weld the yoke to make sure its square. After the yoke is welded completly around, slide the sleeve up and around the new welds and weld the sleeve. I run this set up and abuse the hell out of it and drove it from Oregon to NC no vibrations from the drive line, and will run it on my new set up also.



Now the pain if you still have torsion bars install the trans and slide it as far back as you can you might have to roll it some in the tunnel to get it back far enough. Install the engine bolt down now slide the trans up and connect to the bell housing install drive shaft.

I used a in line fuel pump and good filter pre pump. I used this pump.
Ok wiring it up I used 5 pin relays because that is what I had on hand the 5th pin in the center 87a is not used so four pin relays will work too, but I had to order female relay plugs local auto parts store unless you want to use spade conectors not recomended. From the engine harness locate these wires black with pink stripe, black with yellow stripe, brown, black with red stripe, red with black stripe, black with white stripe, red power, black ground and orange.

Fuel pump relay
splice together black w/yellow and fuel pump + run to pin 87 on relay
black w/pink run to pin 85
pin 86 and 30 splice together fusable link to battery hot done

IACV relay
splice together brown and black w/red to pin 87
pin 30 to fuseable link battery hot
from 620 fuse box find black w/white wire should be hot when cranking run to pin 86 then pin 87 to chassis ground done

ECCS relay
black w/white to pin 87
red with black to pin 85
pin 86 and 30 splice together fusable link to battery hot done

black wire chassis ground
red wire fusable link to battery hot
orange wire to starter solenoid

I used a spare 620 fuse box and put inline switches in witch is opitional I just like switches.



I mounted the fuse box to the bottom of the safari tray ran battery hot to it out of the fuse box to relays or in my case swithes then relays.

I used a radiator out of a 74 620 because of the passanger inlet outlet and used a electric fan I scavanged for 20 bucks. I also removed the ka clutch fan spaced the radiator closer to the engine and put the electric fan infront of the radiator


Edited by Braden620 - 20 Mar 2011 at 10:25pm
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Rusty View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rusty Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Mar 2011 at 10:36pm
Good write up so far Jon, thanks for taking the time. I'm sure there will be plenty of questions as time goes on.
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Braden620 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Braden620 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Mar 2011 at 10:51pm
thanks man!! if you have any pictures that would be great, especially for those of us who need pictures to learn lol
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slinginabullet View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote slinginabullet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Mar 2011 at 6:14pm
ok gents i think i got it. let me know if you have any questions or if any corrections need to be made. have fun its just nuts and bolts
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fl620ka Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Mar 2011 at 9:31pm
what accelerator cable did you use thanks
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slinginabullet View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote slinginabullet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Mar 2011 at 9:39am
Ooh that was a few years back but I believe it was off a pathfinder or extera can't remember what one but for sure it was one of those I grabbed both and used the best fit of the two
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fl620ka Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Mar 2011 at 9:52pm
did you do the drive shaft yourself and do you have any more pics thanks

Edited by fl620ka - 21 Mar 2011 at 9:59pm
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slinginabullet View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote slinginabullet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Mar 2011 at 11:10pm
Yes I did the shaft myself I did everything myself. Except for machine work on my engines. What kind of pics would you like?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Charlie69 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Mar 2011 at 2:35am
Clean write up thank you for sharing the information.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Braden620 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Mar 2011 at 9:42am
that fuel pump you used looks sufficient, most people use the walbro 255 lph, it is available in an inline version and is the same price. Just another one of probably a thousand options i guess. thanks for the throttle cable idea, I grabbed one off of a 240sx but i might end up getting one off of a pathfinder. Thats cool how you did the driveshaft, the reason it doesnt wobble is probably because you welded it on the end instead of in the middle, i will end up having mine modified im sure.
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