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Ignition ballast resistor

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Dragsun View Drop Down
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    Posted: 02 Nov 2014 at 3:50pm
Do ignition ballast resistors come and go, or do they completly fail. I just purchased my second 620 a couple of weeks ago. I have replaced the clutch master, fuel pump and fuel lines and filter. Cleaned the carb bowl out too. The truck will run fine for 15 minutes then it will die as if you turned the key off. Fires right back up then dies. Let it cool off for 15-20 min and runs for a few more minutes. I have a new resistor and coil on the way, and will be rebuilding the weber 32/36 soon too.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Braden620 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Nov 2014 at 9:30am
First thing I think of when I read this is Vapor lock.  Make sure there are no gas lines being subjected to intense heat.  When you turn the truck off can you hear fuel boiling?  If I were you I would try to find a matchbox dizzy and chuck that ballast resistor in the trash.  I'm not sure what to tell you on the resistor.  You can check it (resistance/ audible continuity) with a multi meter, try checking it when cool and then again when hot.  I would assume if it failed it would quit altogether.   http://www.randakksblog.com/ballast-resistors-explained-ballast-testing-procedure/
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Dragsun View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dragsun Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Nov 2014 at 5:54pm
No fuel boiling here that i can tell. The rest of the ignition parts are brand new. We will see when the new parts arrive.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote EzCruiser Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Nov 2014 at 11:27pm
Any chance fuel lines are blocked, clogged or have holes in them letting air seep into the lines?  will it start back at all after the 15 minutes of running?
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Dragsun View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dragsun Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Nov 2014 at 12:46am
All the rubber lines have been replaced as of last Saturday. The metal lines were blown out at the same time. It will start right up after it dies then die imedeately when condition is present. Let it cool for say 15 min then it runs fine for 10-15 more min.

Braden the fuel lines are run on the oposite side of the exhaust. The only place might be from the fuel pump output to the metal line that goes around valve cover, and from there to carb. I`ll look into that possibility. I will run a new line from the tank to the filter too incase the metal one might have a pin hole in it. I saw no obvious leaks or holes in it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smooth620 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Nov 2014 at 5:37am
I had the exact same problem with my 2nd 620 before I sold it. It was the ignition coil. It would get real hot and shut off the engine. Let it sit for 5 minutes and it started up again.
Better to learn from other peoples mistakes than to make them yourself.-Anonymous

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote EzCruiser Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Nov 2014 at 9:23am
I can't wait for the new parts now...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Braden620 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Nov 2014 at 9:35am
Float adjustment may also be necessary.  Its also easy enough to replace the needle and seat without even removing the carb.  

If we ever forget that we are One Nation Under God, then we will be a nation gone under.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dragsun Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Nov 2014 at 9:59pm
Got new ballast and coil in today. Seems to have fixed the issue.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote EzCruiser Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Nov 2014 at 10:33pm
Woohoo! Great job, glad you're up and running!
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